A new boiler is one of the largest single purchases most households make, and it will be in your home for the next twelve to fifteen years. It is worth getting the specification right rather than accepting whatever a salesperson has in the van.
We survey the property first, size the boiler to the way your household actually uses hot water, explain what the options mean in plain English, and give you a fixed written quote. Then we install it, notify Building Control, register the warranty and leave you with the paperwork.
This is the honest question, and it is worth asking before you spend anything. Replacing a boiler that has another five good years in it is a waste of money. Repairing a boiler for the fourth time in two years is a waste of money too.
Consider replacement seriously if:
The boiler is over 12 years old. Most domestic boilers last 12 to 15 years. After that, parts get harder to source and failures get more frequent.
It has needed two or more repairs in the last two years. The repairs are usually the symptom, not the problem.
The failed part is expensive. A heat exchanger, a gas valve or a main PCB on an old boiler can cost a significant share of what a new one would.
It is a non-condensing boiler. Boilers installed before 2005 are generally non-condensing and considerably less efficient than a modern equivalent.
Parts are obsolete. Once the manufacturer stops making a part, the boiler is on borrowed time.
If none of those apply, you probably want a repair rather than an installation, and we will tell you so.
A combi heats water on demand, so there is no cylinder and no tank in the loft. It is the right answer for the majority of houses and flats with one bathroom, and it frees up an airing cupboard.
Where combis struggle is simultaneous demand. If two showers run at once, flow drops. In a busy family house with two bathrooms, a combi can be the wrong choice even though it is cheaper to fit.
A system boiler works with a hot water cylinder but has the pump and expansion vessel built in, so there is no tank in the loft. This is usually the right answer for houses with two or more bathrooms, or where several people shower at similar times. Paired with an unvented cylinder you get strong, even pressure at every outlet.
The traditional setup: boiler, hot water cylinder, and a cold water tank in the loft. Still the sensible choice in older properties where the pipework and radiators would struggle with mains pressure, or where the existing system is sound and only the boiler needs replacing.
It depends on the number of bathrooms, how many people live there, when they use hot water, your incoming mains flow rate, and where the flue can practically go. We measure the mains flow rate on the survey rather than guessing, because a combi fitted to a property with poor incoming flow will always disappoint.
Read our guide to choosing between combi, system and regular boilers →An honest answer: the price depends on the boiler, the type of installation, and how much work is needed beyond swapping the appliance.
The variables that move the price most are:
Type of installation. A straight combi-for-combi swap in the same position is the simplest and cheapest job. A conversion from a regular system to a combi, or a back boiler removal, involves considerably more work.
Moving the boiler. Relocating from a kitchen to a loft or garage means new gas, water, flue and condensate runs.
Boiler make and warranty length. Premium makes with 10 or 12 year warranties cost more up front than budget makes with 2 or 5 years.
System condition. If the existing system is full of sludge, it needs flushing before a new boiler goes on. Skipping this invalidates most manufacturer warranties.
Extras. Magnetic filter, smart thermostat, new radiators, upgraded gas supply pipe.
Fixed Written Quotation
Full on-site survey before any commitment.
Free on-site survey and a fixed written quote before any commitment
Correct sizing based on heat loss and measured mains flow rate, not a rule of thumb
Removal and safe disposal of the old boiler
Gas supply pipe checked and upgraded if required
Chemical flush or power flush of the existing system as needed to protect the new boiler and validate the warranty
Magnetic system filter fitted
New condensate run, correctly sized and lagged where it runs externally
Flue installed to manufacturer specification and clearances
Full commissioning, combustion analysis and system balancing
Building Regulations notification and certificate
Benchmark logbook completed
Manufacturer warranty registered on your behalf
A proper handover — we show you how the controls work before we leave
A straight combi replacement in the same position is normally a one-day job. A conversion from a regular system to a combi usually takes two days. A back boiler removal with a full system conversion typically takes two to three days, sometimes longer if radiators and pipework are being replaced at the same time.
You will be without heating and hot water for part of that time. We plan around it, and where possible we leave hot water available overnight on multi-day jobs.
Boiler installations round here are rarely a straight swap, because the housing stock is old.
Stone terraces in Halifax, Huddersfield and the Calder Valley often have solid walls, awkward flue routes and original pipework that has been extended piecemeal over decades. Flue positioning relative to windows and boundaries is usually the constraint, and it needs checking before you pick a boiler.
Back-to-backs and through terraces in Bradford and Dewsbury frequently still have a back boiler behind a gas fire in the living room. Removing one means opening up the fireplace, capping the gas, making good, and finding a sensible new position for a combi — commonly the kitchen or an upstairs cupboard.
1930s and post-war semis around Wakefield and Ossett typically have a regular boiler, a cylinder in the airing cupboard and a tank in the loft. These convert to combis well, provided the mains flow rate supports it.
Converted mill flats and newer apartments often have communal flue arrangements or restricted flue options, and the boiler choice is limited by what will physically fit and vent.
Microbore pipework, common in 1970s and 1980s installations across the district, restricts flow and silts up. If you have it, it needs assessing before a new boiler goes on, not afterwards.
All Major Domestic Brands
Unbiased recommendations for your property.
We install and work on all the main domestic makes, including Worcester Bosch, Vaillant, Ideal, Baxi, Glow-worm, Potterton, Vokera and Alpha.
We do not push one brand because a manufacturer pays us to. We recommend based on what suits the property, what warranty you want, and what parts are readily available locally if something ever needs fixing.
Ring 07866 623870, send us a WhatsApp with a photo of your current boiler, or request a callback. We will come out, look properly, and give you a written quote with no pressure attached.
Areas we cover for boiler installation: Dewsbury · Wakefield · Huddersfield · Bradford · Halifax
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